In the heart of Austin, Texas, a culinary gem named Birdie’s is redefining the essence of neighborhood dining with its innovative approach to both cuisine and workplace culture. This establishment, recently crowned as the 2023 Restaurant of the Year, is not just a place where the community gathers for a meal but a beacon of sustainability and employee wellness in the hospitality industry.
Birdie’s, the brainchild of chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel and her husband, beverage director Arjav Ezekiel, stands out for its exceptional fare and a business model that places the mental health and well-being of its staff at the forefront. The restaurant’s fame has spread far beyond Austin’s East 12th Street, drawing in both locals and travelers with its seasonal ingredients, unfussy yet refined dishes, and a wine program that is as approachable as it is intriguing.
The culinary prowess of Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel shines through in dishes like the beef tartare accompanied by carta di musica, a dramatic presentation that has become a signature of the restaurant. The Italian pop-up, Aiello’s, brought forth a caper-laden chicken piccata that remains etched in the memories of patrons. The weekly pasta showcase, featuring delights such as gnocchi sardi bathed in tomato sauce with pecorino and breadcrumbs, is a testament to Tracy’s skill in elevating simple ingredients to gastronomic heights. Vegetables, too, are given star treatment, with dishes like green beans tossed in an anchovy-garlic vinaigrette showcasing the chef’s ability to dress produce with maximum flavor.
Arjav Ezekiel’s wine program complements the culinary experience with a selection that encourages exploration. The 250-bottle list includes unique finds like the Christophe Mignon ADN de Meunier Brut Rosé, described by Arjav as having a “nose of buttered brioche with strawberry jam.” The restaurant’s selection of ports, sherries, and vermouths rounds out the dining experience, offering a sophisticated finish to any meal.
The couple’s journey began in New York City, where they met in 2015 and discovered a shared philosophy on work-life balance. Determined to create a restaurant that would allow them to prioritize their family and personal well-being, they chose Austin for its vibrant community and the opportunity to return to Tracy’s home state. Birdie’s was born from a clear vision of sustainability, not just in terms of ingredients but also in the lifestyle it afforded both the owners and their employees.
Birdie’s operates on a counter-service model, a rarity for establishments of its caliber, allowing for a lean team that can serve up to 200 people a night. This model also supports a flat tip pool, ensuring equitable compensation for all staff members, from dishwashers to cooks to front-of-house personnel. Education is a cornerstone of the Birdie’s ethos, with wine classes held bi-weekly to enhance staff knowledge and appreciation of the beverages they serve.
The restaurant’s commitment to staff welfare extends to its vacation policy, offering two weeks of paid time off in August and over the winter holidays. This approach is a stark contrast to the industry norm, where vacations are often a luxury afforded only between job transitions. Mental health is also a priority, with subsidized care provided through the Mike & Sherry Project, an Austin-based initiative supporting hospitality workers. In a move that underscores their dedication to their team’s well-being, Tracy and Arjav have been known to close the restaurant for additional rest days when needed.
Birdie’s also sets a benchmark in health benefits, offering insurance coverage after 60 days of employment and covering half of the premium. The introduction of paid family leave for two months is a groundbreaking step in the hospitality industry, reflecting the owners’ desire to support their staff through significant life events.
Looking to the future, the couple is focused on growth and the replication of their successful model. They field calls from restaurants nationwide, all eager to learn how to balance exceptional hospitality with a healthy workplace. Birdie’s stands as a testament to the fact that in the restaurant business, there are no shortcuts, only dedication and a commitment to breaking the rules to create a sustainable and fulfilling work environment.
As Birdie’s continues to enchant diners with its culinary offerings and charm industry professionals with its revolutionary model, it serves as a shining example of what the future of dining could look like — where the nourishment of patrons and the nurturing of staff go hand in hand.
In an industry often characterized by its grueling demands, Birdie’s stands as a beacon of hope, proving that a restaurant can indeed be a place of both gastronomic delight and genuine care for those who make it all happen. It’s not just the food and wine that make Birdie’s a destination; it’s the heart and soul poured into every aspect of its operation.
